Wines Of Anarchy

Region: Abruzzo < Italy

Grapes: Trebbiano

Vineyard/Cellar Stats: certified organic farming; minimal SO2 at bottling

Winemaker: Francesco Cirelli

Francesco would stand out as a rising star in any of Italy’s big famous regions, but in the decidedly non-shiny region of Abruzzo, better known for recent geological disasters (earthquakes, avalanche) than wine, his aura is almost blinding. Here is a farmer and winemaker who worked high-profile jobs in several of France and Italy’s famous cellars and could’ve rooted his own project anywhere, but chose to return to Abruzzo, his homeland, in 2003, buying a small estate just 8 km from the sea. And he’s been challenging conventions and pushing the boundaries since he landed. His organically-farmed estate includes not only vineyards but olive trees, garlic, spelt, wheat, barley, figs, and geese – a complete ecosystem. In the cellar, he’s experimenting with amphora, adds nothing but tiny SO2 at bottling and basically lets his wines evolve as they wish. He trying to make authentic wine, not important wine - wine that is “a magic potion for joy and communion”, in his words. This Trebbiano, done in a lightly fizzy style, is most definitely this happy elixir. Bone dry, with lively bubbles, loads of minerality and a Sweet Tart finish.